Day 25: Temple 39

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After getting to Shimanto, running all our chores, and feeding ourselves, it was time for bed. I stank. I hadn’t had time for a shower and I was exhausted. As I lay on the futon, I was determined not to move unless my nephew complained. He kept his silence as he, too, was too tired to care.

So I got up at 6:00 a.m. to bathe so that we could catch the 7:15 train back to Hirata Station. Since the place we were staying at didn’t serve food, we would stop at Lawson’s in Hirata, find a place to have breakfast, and then move on the Temple 39, less than two kilometers away. Across from Lawson’s was a nice covered bus stop with service not expected for the next 45 minutes. No chance of irritating any decoyed bus operator.

It was raining and a man in full orange rain gear appeared at the intersection and started speaking over a portable P.A. system. He started by repeating a phrase a number of times and then started into his speech. Very much like the preacher who used to hang out in front of Old Navy on State Street in Chicago. Whether his subject was political or religious, we couldn’t tell and he was still orating as we finished our breakfasts and started the 30 minute hike to Temple 39.

Enkoji (Temple 39 – “Emitting Light Temple”)
A turtle with a bell on its back – Enkoji
The bell is considered a National Treasure.
The carp looking to be fed. One of the key features on these temple grounds are the big pond and the small stream running into into it.
Enkoji
Looking into the temple grounds from the main gate.
The temple pond with small bridge.
My nephew told me I needed to check out this tree in a small, side courtyard. It was reminiscent of something from a dark, enchanted forest in a Disney movie or some such.
The cherry blossoms are starting to emerge here and there.

After finishing at Enkoji, we had about another 18 kilometers to go for the day. It was time again to head back toward the coast. After exiting the temple, we were directed almost immediately to a small mountain path. It would be a short one and let us skip the road heading back east before again turning west.

While it was wet, the rain was only intermittent and the path wasn’t steep or slippery.
We cheer for bamboo forests.
Again, the dilapidated and caved in buildings which should have been torn down ages ago. [Note: There are plenty of regular buildings in fine condition, but how many of those would you want me to post before tedium set in?]
Henro stickers point which direction you should be heading and tell when you should change direction.
Making our way back to the coast and Sukumo City.

We stayed on Route 56 until we reached Sukumo City around 11:30 a.m. We realized we were nearly there when we saw a sign informing us that we were now 7 meters above sea level. We had thought we were still in the mountain valleys. We stopped at a large henro hut to decide where we would eat lunch. We found a hamburger joint with reviews that left us eager to visit. Basically, the consensus was “ignore the cleanliness issues and go for the food and atmosphere.” We found that hard to resist.

Hamburger meal from Kirin House. Unfortunately, it wasn’t the best burger I’d ever had – kinda mealy. The restaurant also appeared to be run by a man and his elderly mother. The mother did the cooking. No McDonald’s efficiency awards were handed out this day.
Kirin House. We did like the atmosphere however, Exactly what you want from a dive joint. There was a line at the front door as we left, so the place appears to be popular.

Not quite filled from our hamburger lunches, we grabbed a few snacks from Lawson’s on the way out of town.

Back into the mountains and valleys.
I almost missed the sign as we exited Kochi Prefecture and entered Ehime Prefecture. I literally did see and read the sign, but it didn’t register until Connor pointed it out.
It’s amazing how much time and effort has gone into water management throughout the island. Rivers and channels run everywhere and lock systems and tiered fields keep water flowing from one field to the one lower preventing stagnation.
Another deserted restaurant.
Here’re my feet chilling before dinner at our lodging for the evening – Omoriya. I just liked the decorations on the wall.
Dinner at Omoriya.

The hostess didn’t speaking any English, but the check-in procedure was standard by now, so we knew how to fill in the forms and what questions to ask. Since we arrived early, we had a bit of time to relax and bathe before dinner.

One other guest joined us this evening. A Japanese gentleman who spoke English very well and whose sister and brother-in-law had been living in Indiana for the past 10 years. Since the proprietress didn’t speak English, I asked if the gentleman would assist calling to make lodging arrangements for tomorrow. He very kindly assisted and got us booked at a place he had stayed at several times when he had walked as a pilgrim.

One final note: During dinner, I noticed the proprietress and the Japanese guest appeared to be conferring and referring to me. I looked up and they immediately complimented me on my chopstick handling abilities. Dude, a Japanese person complimenting you on your chopstick skills is akin to a Russian complimenting you on how well you handle your vodka. Sweet!

4 thoughts on “Day 25: Temple 39”

  2. These pics are awesome. Turtle w bell is cool, those carp are cool, those cherry blossoms are cool af! And holy crap, that bamboo forest is incredible.

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