Day 26: Temple 40

Pretty good sleep for me last night. I was finally able to stand in the morning without fear of pain from the balls of my feet. They’re still toughening up and a blister on my right heel is still metamorphosing into the callus it will become. The feet are getting to where they need to be, but it’s taking so darn long. I’m certain having to get a new pair of larger shoes in Kochi and not being able to properly break them in is a contributing factor.

After finishing breakfast and getting our backpacks prepared, the proprietress was so amused by our size difference that she asked if she could get a picture with us outside her establishment.

Back on the road and back toward the ocean. Our next and only temple for the day was only a few kilometers away and we reached it in an hour and a half.

Kanjizaiji (Temple 40 – “Temple of Kannon”) wasn’t particularly impressive. Its Hondo burned down in 1959 and was rebuilt in 1964. It used modern construction materials land methods and appears to just copy the style of the other older, wooden temples. Without the old building techniques and with it sitting nestled in a city at sea level, it just seems to lack the grandeur of some the mountain temples. The temple grounds are broad and grassy. No elaborate gardens, ponds or impressive pagoda on the grounds. Nice, but bland.

After that, it was a four hour hike from Kanjizaiji to the lodgings at Nishiyugyo Center reserved by Nakamura-san (we found out his name) the previous evening. There wouldn’t be many opportunities for a restaurant along the route so we stopped in at Lawson before leaving Ainan Town and Kanjizaiji behind. Also, traditional Japanese breakfasts don’t offer much in the way of bread or pastries, so we grabbed some juices and something sweet. A chocolate cream-filled eclair for me.

We decided to stop for lunch at Morode Coast on what appeared in our route guide to be an observatory platform next to the ocean. It was a half kilometer descent from the main road to the ocean, but the promise of a good view and an available toilet enticed us forward. We were almost to the bottom when Connor looked out and observed, “Isn’t that Kyushu?” Indeed it was. It was a clear day and you could just make out the mountain ranges of Kyushu, the third largest island of Japan, on the distant horizon.

We greeted a young woman sitting enjoying the afternoon on the large cement observation platform just above the rocky beach. There was no cover from the sun on the platform, so we found a structure with a roof of beams meant for some sort of vine covering. We weren’t sure if it was on public or private property, but took a gamble it was public and sat down to have lunch.

After lunch, we passed a man who was washing a car on the property and he seemed fine with us being there, so the question of private vs. public is now moot. We were about to start our ascent back to the road when the young woman from earlier came up behind us and asked if we wanted a ride in her car. “Ue made?” [Until up?] We gladly accepted the ride back up to the main road. It’s not cheating for a walking pilgrim if it’s a ride back to where you left off. Her name was Naoko. She was very friendly and insisted on getting out of the car and shaking hands with both of us before she left with a smile and a wave.

After dinner, I asked the proprietress if she could assist me make reservations for Saturday and Sunday. The first reservation, which she made for ashita [tomorrow], went off fine. The first place we tried had closed, but the second place had space available. However, when she was making the reservation for assatte [day after tomorrow], I heard her say Getsuyobi [Monday] several times during the call. She came back from the kitchen where the phone was located to let me know the reservations had been made. I thanked her and confirmed, “So we’re reserved at this place on Doyobi [Saturday] and we’re reserved at this other place on Nichiyobi [Sunday]?” She looked confused and then suddenly a look of horrified realization crossed her face. She was apologizing profusely as she rushed back to the phone in the kitchen. “I thought today was Saturday!”

The reservation was quickly fixed. The proprietress and I were able to laugh it off and Connor and I agreed that I will be the one to continue supervising the making of reservations.