Day 18: Bekkaku Temple 5

We had a decision to make in the morning whether we wanted to take the ferry along Uranouchi Bay, cutting out over 6 kilometers of walking, follow the regular henro michi, or follow the longer but scenic coastal route. If we took the ferry, our walking day would be shortened to under 3 hours to reach the next temple and nearby minshuku where we were booked to stay. Since ferries have been used on the pilgrimage since it began, I have no qualms with using one. I even recall reading Ms. Itsue Takamura taking several in her book “The 1918 Pilgrimage of Takamura Itsue” based upon a series of newspaper articles written while on her own pilgrimage. (Note: Breakfast was rice balls and oranges left for us by the hostel owners the evening before.)

Since it appeared we would have plenty of time, with only one temple to visit, we decided to take the Yokonami Skyline route along the coast and view the vistas. It was an uneventful walk – hilly but easily management. I had set 4:00 p.m. as our goal to reach the next temple and our phones’ navigation were currently estimating our arrival at around 2:00 p.m. Even with time for lunch, we had plenty of time to play with.

After passing the length of Uranouchi Bay, we sat to have our lunch bought in the morning from Family Mart. It had sprinkled a little over the last 20 minutes, but not enough to bother getting out the rain gear. The sun came out as we ate and dried our surroundings in short order.

We only had six miles ahead of us until we reached the temple and it had only just turned 1:00 p.m. We were back in the valleys and away from the ocean and Connor remarked that it reminded him of Day 4 when we came out of the mountains back toward Tokushima. He also mentioned that the scenery reminded him very much of Oregon. All that was missing was a yard containing a Gadsden flag.

About a quarter mile before entering Susaki City, we beheld the enormity of the Sumitomo Osaka Cement Kochi Factory. I say a quarter of mile as that’s about how long this factory is. It took us right to the edge of the city. There’s a line of trees planted before the factory running its entire length. The factory wore those trees like an apron as it towered over them from behind.

We reach Daizenji (Bekkaku Temple 5 – “Temple of Great Virtue”) well before our self-imposed deadline. It’s honestly a rather unimpressive temple complex. The small Hondo sit on top of a hill clustered together in a small area containing a wash basin, temple bell, several various small shrines, and what appears to be either a large meeting room or maintenance shed? Since we had entered the temple complex from the side instead from the front, Connor gave me a doubtful, “Are you sure we’re at the right temple?” I had seen pictures and video of this temple before the trip, so I had an idea of what to expect beforehand. Fortunately, there was a small map of the layout of the temple grounds attached to the Hondo and we could see the Daishido was below us at the foot of the hill/mountain.

It was easy 20 minutes to our lodging, Minshuku Hikari, where we bathed, were fed, and, with the assistance of the owner, acquired our reservations for this coming Saturday and Sunday.