Day 30: Bekkaku Temple 7

I was honestly expecting a much more rigorous day. One where we would leave early in the morning, slog for hours up to a mountain top, and drag ourselves back to the inn just in time for a bath, dinner and the final collapse into the futon. Looking at the elevation profile going up to Bekkaku Temple 7 and the notes in the guide book led me to believe we had our work cut out for us. In the end, we had not only the time but also the energy to do a little sightseeing in the afternoon instead.

We work early so that we could catch a train back to a better starting point. I don’t consider it cheating to use public transportation to back get to a point you’ve already walked passed. There three paths up to Temple 7, so we had our choice and choice the “easiest” one not consisting mostly of pavement. It was called the “Jizo Trail” for all the Jizo statues placed along the trail.

Markers pointing the way off the maintenance road.

We first stopped at 7-Eleven to get some snacks and lunch for the trail. I had thought it would be almost noon by the time we reached the summit, so it would be good to have something prepared.

We got a slightly later start but were on the trail by 7:30 a.m. on a paved road leading up into a valley away from Ozu City. A helpful driver called out to us as we were about to reach the turnoff point to make sure we knew where it was. It appeared to be either a forest access road and went on for quite some time. It was wide and even with no big rocks or fallen logs in the way, so it was a steady and even climb.

I wish all our climbs were like this, mostly that is. While it was almost constant climbing, it was rarely reached into uncomfortable steepness. The type where you need ropes or chains for assistance. We’ve had both on some of our previous climbs. Again, I also think our last three weeks of walking and climbing have something to do with it. We kept moving at a fairly constant pace, barely pausing to rest or catch our breaths. Or rather, my breath. Connor was running circles around me three weeks ago. Now he’s flying.

I mentioned to him that his father, my brother, probably wouldn’t be too upset if he left me behind (as he would know I could find the way on my own), but his mother might get a little irritated with him. Connor may or may not have agreed with me. (His parents and step-parents read this after all.)

Don’t you just love bamboo forests? I do.
Jizo. Protectors of children, pregnant women and travelers.

It was almost a shock when we pulled into the temple at 10:15. It had only taken two and three-quarter hours of walking. The guide book had recommended planning for four hours of hiking to reach the summit.

Jizo on the trail a few hundred meters before reaching the temple grounds.
Large statue of Kobo Daishi below the temple grounds.
Below Bekkaku Temple 7
Shusekiji (Bekkaku Temple 7)
We’re still not sure which was the Hondo and which was the Daishido. They weren’t clearly marked like in the other temples.
Looking south to Yawatahama and the Pacific Ocean from the summit.
Looking back on southern Ozu City from the summit.
The temple was founded in the 700’s after several hunters came across a stag standing over a Jizo statue at the summit of the mountain. They took that as a sign that this was a sacred place.
The temple bell
On the toilet roll dispenser in the temple restroom. I was just curious about how much “excessive force” would need to be used and exactly what kind of injury are we talking about here? On the plus side, they had the best toilet paper I’ve experienced since landing on this island. Connor agreed that there seemed to be a dearth of quality toilet paper, so it’s not just me.
More Jizo on our descent.

We were able to eat our lunches in the temple parking lot and it was still before noon. We would be able to descend back to the valley and either to go Bekkaku Temple 8 or go to Ozu Castle. As we already Bekkaku Temple 8 on the schedule for tomorrow and the return trail practically took us right past the castle, it was an easy decision to make. We took the trail on our descent that would lead us more directly into Ozu City.

Ozu Castle in the distance.
Ozu Castle. The original burned down during the Meiji Restoration. This replica was built in the 1990’s based upon photos taken of the original and a scale model preserved of its interior structural design. It’s now a part-time museum and has an expensive hotel associated with it.
Ozu Castle
Ozu Castle
The model used to restore the castle. Note that it has four tiers instead of the usual three tiers.
View east from the castle.
The top tier. The castle is also unusual in that the main beam is off center.
Carp in the pond inside our inn.

3 thoughts on “Day 30: Bekkaku Temple 7

  1. Connor should abandon you in a bamboo forest to get back at you for your comments about abandoning him in a bamboo forest at the start of the pilgrimage.

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