Day 31: Bekkaku Temple 8

Riverside(ish) path in Ozu City

We woke at 6:00 a.m. and, instead of serving breakfast, the inn had provided us with packages of baked buns, some fruit and energy bars instead. While chewing on one of the walnut buns, I noticed a friend had responded almost immediately to something I had posted. I looked up the time at home and figured why not try a FaceTime call. She and her husband answered and we had a nice ten minute video call. I hadn’t spoken with them for a month, so it was good to see that the world is still turning.

We reached Eitokuji/Toyogabashi (Bekkaku Temple 8 – “Temple of Eternal Virtue”/“Ten Nights Bridge”) before 9:00 a.m. It’s a really odd little temple. It’s located right a the interchange between the Matsuyama Expressway, National Route 56 and the edge of Ozu City. The Hondo is only meters away from Route 56 and it’s constant stream of traffic. What’s worse, we couldn’t find the Daishido.

Hondo – Toyogabashi. During Kukai’s lifetime, he had attempted to find lodging for the evening in this area, however no one would take him. As night fell, he decided he needed some sort of shelter so he made his bed under a bridge. It was a miserable cold night and when the next morning came he described the experience was as if one night equaled ten. Hence the “ten night bridge”.
Hondo
The Hondo from across the street.

After completing our duties at the hondo, we went to look under the bridge as there is supposed to be statue of Kukai laying on his side attempting to sleep there. When we got there, we also discovered that’s where the Daishido had gone to.

Daishido – Toyogabashi
Under the bridge.
The guardrails to Toyogabashi

We left Toyogabashi around 9:30 and decided to take the much quieter pedestrian path along the river as we made our way into the interior of Shikoku. We hadn’t walked too long when we saw two incredible houses. It was as if someone thought, “Hey, I have a bunch of scaffolding and parts of a house that collapsed down the street. I should really build a tiered garden with that stuff and attach it to my house.”

Howl’s Moving Castle
Connor just had to go up to the older gentlemen who came out of the house and ask to take pictures. The man, who appeared to be around 90, said he was growing flowers in the trays. When they’re in bloom, I bet this place looks amazing!

We continued our way to Uchiko City. We decided to take an alternate route to the main road as we’d prefer not to be walking next to a busy road all the time. I was a pleasant diversion. We again took a quite road through a forest into some farmland. There were fields full of ripe cabbages being harvested and other fields of grape vines still barren strung along their guide wires. We were passed numerous times by truck laden with crates full of cabbages.

The Light in the Forest
You know you love bamboo.
Audrey II
Grape vines
On the edge of Uchiko City
Just a small reservoir we passed.
Lunch at Yoneya, Uchiko City
We missed the 2022 national tour of a musical version of “A Christmas Carol”. I totally would have gone to see this. Flyers really do stay around forever, don’t they?

We had time to spare before continuing to our lodging, so we decided to stay in Uchiko for a bit to see its Kabuki Theater and one of its historic districts.

Uchikoza- Kabuki (and other) theater
The theater
View from the stage
Under the stage. A portion of the stage is on a revolve. There are four posts like this attached at 90 degree angles under the stage. Stagehands would push against the post to turn the stage around. Stones were embedded in the floor to push against.
Uchiko Antique Street. Many older homes and shops built in the traditional style line the street. The oldest being built in the 1700s.

We left Uchiko City about 2:30 and reached our lodging at 5:15.

Crossing the Oda River
An old trail marker for the henro michi. The area to the right was all clear cut for logging. The pilgrim path led through a desolate valley.
600 meters from Ikadaya – our home for the evening.
I just thought this pot was really cute. It contained an egg custard. It was more of a savory dish, containing bits of fish and other meats.
Dinner was amazing!

3 thoughts on “Day 31: Bekkaku Temple 8

  1. The 90 yo man planting flowers in an abandoned collapsed house is why I think the Japanese are the High elves of Asia.

    Also your dinner looks delicious.

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  2. The f*** is going on with those fish‼️ Keep the meal photos coming, never get tired of them. The underbelly of the stage is fascinating. Love the cabbage patch.

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